Large cuts:
Bullet wounds:
Small cuts:
Showing posts with label 3D Transfers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 3D Transfers. Show all posts
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Encapsulated silicone wound prosthetics
Some pics of the encapsulated silicone prosthetic wounds that I've recently made with edges that can be blended off:
Large cuts:
Bullet wounds:
Small cuts:
Large cuts:
Bullet wounds:
Small cuts:
Saturday, September 25, 2010
Making a mould for 3D transfers: take 2
Today I made a new mould for 3D transfers. This came about after talking with Brian Sipe at IMATS and getting some useful tips from him. I has also recently tried making some encapsulated silicone prosthetics using our existing 3D transfer moulds and while some of the sculpts and moulds we have are pretty good, it is noticeable that our earlier moulds have a few technical issues. Another reason for this blog post is because my earlier post on making a mould for 3D transfers (found here) makes me cringe a little.
To begin with sculpt the 3D transfers onto either sheet styrene or foamcard (the longer route for this is to float off the sculpts from a positive of the model who they will be applied to later then rework them on a flat surface). The ones shown here are a series of bullet wounds to be applied to the body and a cut to be applied to the side of the lips on the face.
After taking my time sculpting these as neatly and with as fine an edge as possible, I build a simple box mould using foamcard, pins and duct tape (alternatively this mould can be made out of High Impact Polystyrene Sheets or HIPS and glue). Make sure your walls are high enough for the level of silicone you are going to pour into this to make your 3D transfer mould. I'm comfortable with using foamcard, pins and duct tape for this purpose and they are very easy to work with, but I'm also planning on using HIPS for this purpose for future moulds as it looks faster.
After the box mould is stuck together it is worth double checking any areas that might leak. This time I used a condensation (Tin) based silicone to make the mould for the transfers. Previously I had used a platinum silicone to make the mould from, which does give other options in terms of either doing prosaide transfers OR encapsulated platinum silicone pieces. Brian Sipe reckons that using tin silicone for the mould gives a bit harder mould that works better for 3D transfers. Remember to always mix your silicone thoroughly!
After the silicone has set, pull apart your box mould walls and you should have flat silicone mould for 3D transfers.
I am also planning on buying some better quality tattoo transfer paper and having another go at doing some more 3D transfers as well as experimenting with encapsulated silicone pieces for the same purposes. (See an earlier attempt at applying 3D transfers here.)
To begin with sculpt the 3D transfers onto either sheet styrene or foamcard (the longer route for this is to float off the sculpts from a positive of the model who they will be applied to later then rework them on a flat surface). The ones shown here are a series of bullet wounds to be applied to the body and a cut to be applied to the side of the lips on the face.
After taking my time sculpting these as neatly and with as fine an edge as possible, I build a simple box mould using foamcard, pins and duct tape (alternatively this mould can be made out of High Impact Polystyrene Sheets or HIPS and glue). Make sure your walls are high enough for the level of silicone you are going to pour into this to make your 3D transfer mould. I'm comfortable with using foamcard, pins and duct tape for this purpose and they are very easy to work with, but I'm also planning on using HIPS for this purpose for future moulds as it looks faster.
After the box mould is stuck together it is worth double checking any areas that might leak. This time I used a condensation (Tin) based silicone to make the mould for the transfers. Previously I had used a platinum silicone to make the mould from, which does give other options in terms of either doing prosaide transfers OR encapsulated platinum silicone pieces. Brian Sipe reckons that using tin silicone for the mould gives a bit harder mould that works better for 3D transfers. Remember to always mix your silicone thoroughly!
After the silicone has set, pull apart your box mould walls and you should have flat silicone mould for 3D transfers.
I am also planning on buying some better quality tattoo transfer paper and having another go at doing some more 3D transfers as well as experimenting with encapsulated silicone pieces for the same purposes. (See an earlier attempt at applying 3D transfers here.)
Thursday, December 24, 2009
Monday, October 12, 2009
Making a mould for a 3D wound transfer
EDIT: to see a more recent post for a better made 3D transfer mould click here.
***
In September I began work on a number of different projects, one of which was making a mould for a 3D wound transfer. Typically the wounds are sculpted in oil based clay onto a face cast of the actor who is going to wear them then floated off in a water bath before being put on a flat surface. I decided I wanted to make a small universal wound mould of a cut that could be applied almost anywhere. So I sculpted the wound straight onto a piece of plasticard (sheet styrene - although foamboard or even hard cardboard would work).
The sculpt was a simple slightly raised jagged cut made out of medium grade sulfur free oil based clay. I made the cut with an old hobby knife. I added some texture to the skin for pores with a metal skewer (a toothpick would suffice). Then I made a raised mould wall around the wound to act as an edge and stop the silicone when pouring the mould. I then poured silicone into the mould to form a negative impression of the wound I had sculpted. I used Pinkysil to do this, which is a skin safe silicone, but you could potentially use a tin based silicone for wound transfers if you are not going to also use it to cast platinum silicone prosthetics. My intention was to use it to make 3D transfers using bondo.
I then waited for an hour and pulled the silicone mould off my sculpt, which looked like this:
I then decided to immediately try and cast something off my newly made mould. So I filled it with slush latex and made an appliance. (As bondo also contains latex this use is not an issue.) Then I waited for the latex to dry. This resulted in a delicate appliance that could be stuck on with Pros-Aide then sealed with castor sealer and coloured up:
***
In September I began work on a number of different projects, one of which was making a mould for a 3D wound transfer. Typically the wounds are sculpted in oil based clay onto a face cast of the actor who is going to wear them then floated off in a water bath before being put on a flat surface. I decided I wanted to make a small universal wound mould of a cut that could be applied almost anywhere. So I sculpted the wound straight onto a piece of plasticard (sheet styrene - although foamboard or even hard cardboard would work).
The sculpt was a simple slightly raised jagged cut made out of medium grade sulfur free oil based clay. I made the cut with an old hobby knife. I added some texture to the skin for pores with a metal skewer (a toothpick would suffice). Then I made a raised mould wall around the wound to act as an edge and stop the silicone when pouring the mould. I then poured silicone into the mould to form a negative impression of the wound I had sculpted. I used Pinkysil to do this, which is a skin safe silicone, but you could potentially use a tin based silicone for wound transfers if you are not going to also use it to cast platinum silicone prosthetics. My intention was to use it to make 3D transfers using bondo.
I then waited for an hour and pulled the silicone mould off my sculpt, which looked like this:
I then decided to immediately try and cast something off my newly made mould. So I filled it with slush latex and made an appliance. (As bondo also contains latex this use is not an issue.) Then I waited for the latex to dry. This resulted in a delicate appliance that could be stuck on with Pros-Aide then sealed with castor sealer and coloured up:
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